| Italy 2008 |
| Siena: The Bicycle Experience |
| "There is an eagle in me that wants to soar, and there is a hippopotamus in me that wants to wallow in the mud." - Carl Sandburg |
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| Click on the fazzoletto of the Giraffa Contrada above to return to the main Siena Page |
In 2006 we spent half of our Italy trip on a bike tour, and we greatly enjoyed it. It
allowed us to see the country, the villages and the people as we would have been
otherwise unable to. Since we enjoyed it so much, we decided to take several days
between the end of our classes and the Palio, rent some bikes, and do day trips
around Siena. We were thrilled when TJ signed on as well. We rented the bikes the
day before he arrived, and were ready to go when he came into town. We arose
early in the morning, biked to the train station, and headed off for our first ride.
allowed us to see the country, the villages and the people as we would have been
otherwise unable to. Since we enjoyed it so much, we decided to take several days
between the end of our classes and the Palio, rent some bikes, and do day trips
around Siena. We were thrilled when TJ signed on as well. We rented the bikes the
day before he arrived, and were ready to go when he came into town. We arose
early in the morning, biked to the train station, and headed off for our first ride.
We took the train for about 30 minutes to the town of Bounconvento. We procured
directions from the fellow behind the counter at the local bar, and then swung out of
town, headed up to the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The abbey sits at the top
of a mountain pass between Bounconvento and Asciano...a day's ride of about 30 k.
The climb up to the abbey was beautiful. It was a cool morning with a light fog that
quickly burned off. The climb wasn't overly difficult, and there was little traffic. We
stopped at scenic spots, and before long we had reached the abbey. Built in 1393,
the abbey has a series of 36 beautiful frescos portraying the life of St. Benedict. We
were delighted to find that, between the two of us, we were able to piece together
most of the captions explaining the frescos.
We ate lunch at the monastary's restaurant, and then continued down to Asciano,
where we caught the train back to Siena.
directions from the fellow behind the counter at the local bar, and then swung out of
town, headed up to the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The abbey sits at the top
of a mountain pass between Bounconvento and Asciano...a day's ride of about 30 k.
The climb up to the abbey was beautiful. It was a cool morning with a light fog that
quickly burned off. The climb wasn't overly difficult, and there was little traffic. We
stopped at scenic spots, and before long we had reached the abbey. Built in 1393,
the abbey has a series of 36 beautiful frescos portraying the life of St. Benedict. We
were delighted to find that, between the two of us, we were able to piece together
most of the captions explaining the frescos.
We ate lunch at the monastary's restaurant, and then continued down to Asciano,
where we caught the train back to Siena.
| Day 1: The Abbey on the Mount |
| The abbey comes into view after a morning's climb |
We stop to enjoy the view
| Day 2: A Pit of Mud |
Today's bike ride started much like the day before. We met TJ early for breakfast
and biked down to the train station. Today we caught the morning train back to
Asciano, and began what was to be a circular ride through Serre di Rapolano, and on
to Rapolano Terme. We planned to eat lunch there and find the free local hot springs
for a lounge before heading back to Asciano and the train back to Siena. Finding the
hot springs was the point of the day...Vanessa had been yearning for public hot
springs since our last trip, so we were going looking for them.
The first part of the day went as planned. The bike ride was rolling and pleasant, past
a travertine marble quarry and along lanes of lavender. Serre di Rapolano is an
ancient town nestled in a cut in the hills. We rode around the town, stopped at the
church, and headed off towards lunch and Rapolano Terme.
and biked down to the train station. Today we caught the morning train back to
Asciano, and began what was to be a circular ride through Serre di Rapolano, and on
to Rapolano Terme. We planned to eat lunch there and find the free local hot springs
for a lounge before heading back to Asciano and the train back to Siena. Finding the
hot springs was the point of the day...Vanessa had been yearning for public hot
springs since our last trip, so we were going looking for them.
The first part of the day went as planned. The bike ride was rolling and pleasant, past
a travertine marble quarry and along lanes of lavender. Serre di Rapolano is an
ancient town nestled in a cut in the hills. We rode around the town, stopped at the
church, and headed off towards lunch and Rapolano Terme.
| Vanessa and TJ on the road to Rapolano Terme |
Rollerskating to the left!
| After lunch in the city park at Rapolano Terme, getting ready to go in search of the elusive hot springs. |
We had a great lunch in the park, and then set out looking for the springs, but without
success. We found a spa / resort, but there was a fee to use the pools and you
needed a swimming suit. A bar owner recalled that there had been a free spring
some years ago, but didn't know of any currently. Finally we found a man who
allowed that if we followed the road past the spa a bit, we might find a public hot
spring to indulge our hot water dreams. So off we went again.
We didn't find anything that looked like a hot spring...though we did find a gently
steaming creek of brilliantly clear water. After going back and forth on the road we
decided that this must be the place, and we began to look for a proper place to ease
our way in.
It was not to be. The banks of the creek were steep and about three feet high.
Eventually we found a place with a solid looking sandbar. Vanessa began to ease
her way down, wondering out loud if it were a good idea, and if the sandbar were
indeed solid. By this point JW was somewhat short on patience, having been
searching fruitlessly for these terme for a long, hot hour. Vanessa asked again if it
were a good idea, and in a moment of frustration JW jumped, feet first, onto the solid
looking sandbar.
Solid looking is not the same thing as "solid". JW sank in up to his hips, and stopped
not by touching bottom, but rather by achieving a sort of neutral buoyancy in a rotten,
sulfuric mud pit. Once it was established that there was no danger, there was much
laughing. JW pulled himself out and TJ tried to help clean him off with the contents of
several water bottles. It helped, but JW was still mud covered, and horribly smelly.
success. We found a spa / resort, but there was a fee to use the pools and you
needed a swimming suit. A bar owner recalled that there had been a free spring
some years ago, but didn't know of any currently. Finally we found a man who
allowed that if we followed the road past the spa a bit, we might find a public hot
spring to indulge our hot water dreams. So off we went again.
We didn't find anything that looked like a hot spring...though we did find a gently
steaming creek of brilliantly clear water. After going back and forth on the road we
decided that this must be the place, and we began to look for a proper place to ease
our way in.
It was not to be. The banks of the creek were steep and about three feet high.
Eventually we found a place with a solid looking sandbar. Vanessa began to ease
her way down, wondering out loud if it were a good idea, and if the sandbar were
indeed solid. By this point JW was somewhat short on patience, having been
searching fruitlessly for these terme for a long, hot hour. Vanessa asked again if it
were a good idea, and in a moment of frustration JW jumped, feet first, onto the solid
looking sandbar.
Solid looking is not the same thing as "solid". JW sank in up to his hips, and stopped
not by touching bottom, but rather by achieving a sort of neutral buoyancy in a rotten,
sulfuric mud pit. Once it was established that there was no danger, there was much
laughing. JW pulled himself out and TJ tried to help clean him off with the contents of
several water bottles. It helped, but JW was still mud covered, and horribly smelly.
| The creek and sandbar...after "The Leap." |
Surveying the damage
| Immediate cleanup |
So there we were...JW a tragically smelly mess, still miles from the train at Asciano.
The only thing to do was to bike back to the public fountains at the park where we ate
lunch and let JW wash off there. We headed back up the hill, TJ and Vanessa
keeping their distance to minimize the drifting smell of aged funk.
JW got mostly clean, and we headed back towards Asciano, having given up on
finding a public terme that didn't try to eat us. The ride back was gorgeous...just
enough downhill to make it feel that you were flying along. At Asciano Vanessa took
the train back to Siena, but TJ and JW decided to bike back...another 20 k. or so.
It was a fun ride...very hilly and very hot, but with great vistas. We were able to get to
within 5 k. of Siena before the road gave way to an major highway in Arbia. So we
waited for a train that didn't come, and eventually took the bus back to Siena
The only thing to do was to bike back to the public fountains at the park where we ate
lunch and let JW wash off there. We headed back up the hill, TJ and Vanessa
keeping their distance to minimize the drifting smell of aged funk.
JW got mostly clean, and we headed back towards Asciano, having given up on
finding a public terme that didn't try to eat us. The ride back was gorgeous...just
enough downhill to make it feel that you were flying along. At Asciano Vanessa took
the train back to Siena, but TJ and JW decided to bike back...another 20 k. or so.
It was a fun ride...very hilly and very hot, but with great vistas. We were able to get to
within 5 k. of Siena before the road gave way to an major highway in Arbia. So we
waited for a train that didn't come, and eventually took the bus back to Siena
| The hilltop town of Mucigliani, between Asciano and Arbia |
| Our first view of Siena, hazy in the distance. |
Back in Siena we repaired to our various quarters. Vanessa had been back for a
while, and through great effort had clean clothes for JW. Everyone showered, and we
met for dinner and to make our plans for the Palio in the morning.
while, and through great effort had clean clothes for JW. Everyone showered, and we
met for dinner and to make our plans for the Palio in the morning.
| JW's bike, on the train platform in Arbia |