"What slender youth...courts thee on roses in some pleasant cave?" - Quintus Horatius Flaccus
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We left our hotel early in the morning, and headed off to the station to make sure we
caught the morning train to Matera. A little research had told us that rail lines in Italy,
even when they are on strike, have to provide minimal service in the first part of the day.
So we aimed to be there early.
The rail line was not the standard TrenItalia, but was instead a
local line that only had three spurs. The cars were older and
not air conditioned, but we enjoyed the ride. We went past
several relics of the train line along the way. The whole trip felt
a bit like a ride back in time...a small and decidedly
non-corporate train company, slightly derelict cars and hard to
decipher schedules.
The schedules were a bit of an issue...we missed the connection to Matera and rode
the original train to the end of the line. We caught the next train back, though, and from
there rode on to Matera, and the Sassi.
Matera is a World Heritage Site, and is one of the oldest continually occupied
communities in Europe. Along the canyon wall, below the town center, is a warren of
cave dwellings that date back almost 9,000 years. The prehistoric settlement at
Matera is believed to be one of the oldest in Italy. Over time the caves were expanded
and many have had house-type facades put on them. But beyond the front door the
homes are cut back into the tuff stone cliff. The dwellings are called the Sassi
(meaning "rocks") and were occupied until the 1950s, when the Italian government
forced the residents into more modern dwellings. In addition to the Sassi, the town has
many churches cut into the rock, most build by 8th century Byzantine monks fleeing
persecution in the East.
After getting settled in our Bed and Breakfast we headed out to see the town. We had
planned on having a full day in Matera, but the Italian labor movement had thwarted our
plans. Even so...we had a great afternoon and evening poking around the oldest
houses on earth.


























Is it a winery? It isn't sure.
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Heading down into the Sassi
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Looking out over the ravine to the far side of the valley
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Sights from ancient Matera
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