| Italy 2008 |
| Bomarzo |
| "Adversity makes men, and prosperity makes monsters." - Victor Hugo |
 |  |  |  |
Regardless of how Sienese we felt at the end of our stay, we still
had to depart. We walked down to the train station in the
morning, meeting TJ in the Piazza Gramsci. Our stroll was in
stark contrast to our last trip. Two years ago we left Siena in a
rush, running for the day's last train. Today we took the first train.
We sat in the train station bar with TJ, enjoying cappucchino and
pastries. TJ was headed north, through Bologna and on to the
coast where he would catch the ferry over to Split. We were
headed south, to Attigliano and Bomarzo.
had to depart. We walked down to the train station in the
morning, meeting TJ in the Piazza Gramsci. Our stroll was in
stark contrast to our last trip. Two years ago we left Siena in a
rush, running for the day's last train. Today we took the first train.
We sat in the train station bar with TJ, enjoying cappucchino and
pastries. TJ was headed north, through Bologna and on to the
coast where he would catch the ferry over to Split. We were
headed south, to Attigliano and Bomarzo.
A pair of hot air balloons held steady over the city as we took our leave, bidding us
farewell as we turned our hopes towards the monsters in the mountains.
farewell as we turned our hopes towards the monsters in the mountains.
In the mid 1500s an Italian nobleman, Duke Vincino Orsini, fell into a depressive
state at the death of his wife. His melancholy manifested itself in strange ways...he
retired to his mountain lands at Bomarzo and began to commission the sculpting of
a curious garden. His Sacred Grove, or Monster Garden, is a collection of fantastic
sculptures, odd little paths and strange constructions.
state at the death of his wife. His melancholy manifested itself in strange ways...he
retired to his mountain lands at Bomarzo and began to commission the sculpting of
a curious garden. His Sacred Grove, or Monster Garden, is a collection of fantastic
sculptures, odd little paths and strange constructions.
Eventually, the garden was forgotten
and left in disrepair. It was
rediscovered in the early 1900s, and
purchased by a local family in 1950.
That family has spent most of their
time, and money , in restoration of
the garden. This was our
destination. As it turned out, this was
easier said than done.
and left in disrepair. It was
rediscovered in the early 1900s, and
purchased by a local family in 1950.
That family has spent most of their
time, and money , in restoration of
the garden. This was our
destination. As it turned out, this was
easier said than done.
| The Grove of Monsters |
We were staying in Attigliano, about 5 kilometers from Bomarzo. We assumed that
we would be able to find easy transport...the Monster Garden seemed like it would
draw a crowd, and there was nothing else major in the area. However, there was
no bus and no standard taxi. The lady from the hotel gave us a ride up a steep,
small mountain road at typical Italian high speed, and gave us a number of a friend
to call to bring us back later in the day. And so we were ready to explore.
we would be able to find easy transport...the Monster Garden seemed like it would
draw a crowd, and there was nothing else major in the area. However, there was
no bus and no standard taxi. The lady from the hotel gave us a ride up a steep,
small mountain road at typical Italian high speed, and gave us a number of a friend
to call to bring us back later in the day. And so we were ready to explore.
| The list at the gate of what you can't do. It might have been easier to make of list of what you can do. Like everyone else, we ignored the no cameras pictogram. |
| A leaning house, a war elephant, and one of two beavers. |
| A few of the interesting sculptures. There were also many we didn't take pictures of, including the giant turtle and the titans ripping each other asunder. |
After wandering around to our heart's content we headed back to the park entrance
to call our ride. The park staff were extremely unhelpful, but eventually lent us a
phone. Which is how we found out that the promised ride could be there...at 9:00
pm. It was about 4:30 at the time. So we walked up to the town to ask about buses
or any such service. No luck. The ubiquitous Italian old man's club just stared at us.
So we prepared ourselves for the radically unsafe walk back down the steep, twisty
mountain road upon which people drove at unsafe speeds. However, as we turned
to go two of the old men sitting around the Bomarzo piazza offered us a ride. We
gratefully accepted, and headed back to our hotel.
to call our ride. The park staff were extremely unhelpful, but eventually lent us a
phone. Which is how we found out that the promised ride could be there...at 9:00
pm. It was about 4:30 at the time. So we walked up to the town to ask about buses
or any such service. No luck. The ubiquitous Italian old man's club just stared at us.
So we prepared ourselves for the radically unsafe walk back down the steep, twisty
mountain road upon which people drove at unsafe speeds. However, as we turned
to go two of the old men sitting around the Bomarzo piazza offered us a ride. We
gratefully accepted, and headed back to our hotel.